
Can a Rotted Deck Post Be Saved? Repair vs. Replacement and What It Costs
Wood moves in Atlanta. Summer humidity swells posts. Winter cold dries them out. Add splashback from sprinklers, clogged gutters, and soil that holds water, and you have the perfect recipe for rot at the base of a deck post. The big question homeowners ask is simple: can a rotted deck post be saved, or is replacement the only safe fix? The answer depends on where the rot is, how far it has spread, and how the deck was built in the first place. As a local contractor working across Atlanta, from Grant Park and Kirkwood to Sandy Springs and Marietta, I’ll break down how we judge a post, what repair options are actually sound, what replacement costs, and when you should search for deck post repair near me and get a pro on site fast.
How Deck Posts Actually Fail in Atlanta
Decay targets wet wood that stays oxygenated. In our area, the most common failure zone is within the first 6 inches above grade down through the buried or bracketed base. Three things accelerate damage here: trapped moisture where a post meets a concrete footing, soil contact that wicks water up the grain, and poor flashing at beam connections that funnels water into the post top. Carpenter ants and termites follow rot, not the other way around. If the wood is soft, insects move in and make a bad situation worse.
A properly built deck in Georgia sits on pressure-treated southern yellow pine rated for ground contact, with posts on top of concrete footings, anchored with hot-dip galvanized or stainless hardware. Many older decks, especially those built before 2010, set posts directly in the ground or in “wet-set” concrete that wraps the post. Those details lead to chronic rot from the inside out.
Signs You Can See Without Tools
Homeowners usually notice a few early clues. The rail wiggles more than it used to, stair treads feel springy, or a post looks darker at the base. A screwdriver pushed into suspicious wood will tell a lot. If the tip sinks more than 1/4 inch with light pressure, you have decay. Surface flaking is not the issue; it’s the soft, spongy core that matters. Another quick check is to watch the deck during a bounce test: have someone walk or gently bounce while you look at the post bases. If you see the post squashing into itself or rocking on the bracket, that post is compromised.
In Buckhead and Midtown homes with high decks over walkout basements, we often see rot at beam-to-post notches. Water enters through the end grain where the beam sits in a notch, runs down inside the post, and opens decay that is invisible until the post starts to split.
When Repair Is Possible vs. When Replacement Is Mandatory
Here is the practical rule we use on jobs across Atlanta: if rot is limited to the outer shell of the post and does not affect the load path, and if the damage is above grade with dry, solid wood beyond the affected zone, a structural repair can hold. If rot is at or below the bearing point into the footing, or if more than about one-third of the post’s cross-section is gone, replacement is the safe move.
A few real examples help:
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Post shoe rusted through in a Virginia-Highland backyard. The bottom 1 inch of a 6x6 post had surface decay, but the bracket failed first. We jacked the beam, cut the post back to solid wood, installed a new adjustable galvanized post base with an isolation gasket, and remounted. Repair was the right call and saved the client over half the cost of full replacement.
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Deck in East Cobb with 6x6 posts buried in concrete. The first 8 inches above grade sounded hollow, and the post flexed under a gentle push. Replacement was non-negotiable. We cut out the old post, cored out the concrete, and set a new footing with an elevated base.
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Morningside porch with beam notch rot. The notch had advanced decay, but the center of the post below was solid and dry. We removed the beam, installed a galvanized saddle to shift bearing to steel hardware instead of the notch, epoxy-consolidated the exterior of the notch, and flashed the joint. This hybrid repair is viable when the notch is the only weak point and the post base tests sound.
The Hidden Risk: Rot Migrates Upward
Rot almost never stops at the surface. Moisture travels in the end grain, so the inside of a post can be mush while the outside still looks square. I’ve pulled 6x6 posts in Decatur that crumbled from the inside out like stale bread. This is why we drill a small inspection hole on the side facing away from view at the suspected zone. Dry, wood-colored shavings suggest solid wood. Dark, damp strands or dust signal deeper decay. If the core is wet and spongy, save the money you would spend on a patch and put it into replacement.
What We Consider a “Real” Repair
If we repair a post, we make sure the load path is sound and protected going forward. A viable repair might include removing softened wood, consolidating marginal fibers with a structural epoxy resin designed for exterior use, and rebuilding the lost section with a high-compression filler or sistered lumber. Then we add a metal base or saddle so the post no longer sits in water. For notch issues, we prefer through-bolted beam hangers and knife plates that carry the load in steel, not in a carved-out block of wood.
Repairs like wrapping a rotted base with decorative trim, coating soft wood with paint, or stuffing the void with construction adhesive are cosmetic only. They can hide a hazard. If you see a wrap that looks oversized around the bottom of a post in a house you’re buying, ask for an inspection report before you trust it.
What Full Replacement Looks Like on Site
A proper replacement starts with temporary support. We set screw jacks or a temporary beam under the joists to take the load off the damaged post. Next, we remove the old post, bracket, and any rotten blocking. If the footing is sound, correctly sized, and at the right height, we clean it and install a new galvanized or stainless post base with a moisture break. If the footing is inadequate or cracked, we pour a new one to Georgia code depth and size, which varies with span and tributary area. Many older decks were built with undersized pads. This is the moment to correct that.
We install a new ground-contact rated 6x6, crown oriented, with the heart-side facing in a way that resists checking toward the beam. We avoid notching whenever possible by using a steel connector that captures the beam. If code or layout requires a notch, we seal the cuts with preservative and add flashing to keep water out of the joint. We plumb the post, lock the hardware with hot-dip galvanized through-bolts, and retransfer the load. Finally, we seal end grain and install a post skirt that is vented and sheds water, not traps it.
Cost Ranges in Atlanta, GA
Prices vary by access, height, and hardware, but the ranges below reflect what homeowners in Atlanta typically see for a single post in 2025 dollars:
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Inspection and minor repair above grade: 250 to 600. This covers epoxy consolidation of a shallow notch, new flashing, and small hardware upgrades.
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Base repair with new post shoe and moisture break, assuming solid core: 450 to 900.
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Full post replacement reusing an adequate footing: 850 to 1,600 for a standard-height deck. Tall decks over walkout basements can land between 1,400 and 2,800 due to staging and safety measures.
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New footing plus post replacement: 1,800 to 3,500 depending on excavation, soil, and concrete volume. Tight side yards in Inman Park or steep lots in Vinings add time and cost.
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Multiple posts during the same visit often lowers per-post cost by 10 to 20 percent, since setup and staging are already in place.
Hardware choices matter. Stainless steel in coastal environments is mandatory; in Atlanta, hot-dip galvanized is standard and keeps cost sensible. Upgrading to knife plates or concealed connectors improves durability and appearance for a modest premium, usually 100 to 300 per post.
Safety and Code Notes Homeowners Should Know
Deck failures almost always begin with a compromised connection. The Georgia Residential Code points to established deck guides for ledger bolts, post sizing, and guard attachment. The main takeaway is simple: a post must Heide Contracting, Atlanta, GA transfer load straight to a footing through approved hardware. Cutting deep notches, using lag screws in end grain, or bearing on a cracked pad breaks that rule and invites movement.
For guard posts, which endure lateral loads, we often add blocking, steel tension ties, or a new attachment scheme during a post project. If your rails feel loose, the fix may involve more than the post base. It is common in Old Fourth Ward and West End bungalows to see code-weak rail details on older decks. We can correct those during the same visit for a small increment.
Can You DIY a Rotted Post?
A handy homeowner can handle light-duty repairs above grade, like sealing end grain, adding post skirts that vent, or replacing a rusted bracket if the post and footing are sound. The moment you need to jack a beam or touch a footing, call a pro. Improper shoring can rack a frame, crack masonry, or drop a corner of the deck. We use purpose-built screw jacks and cribbing, and we calculate loads before lifting.
One homeowner in Smyrna started cutting out a post with a recip saw without shoring the beam. The joists twisted, the ledger flashed loose, and we had to rebuild half the connection to the house. The cost ballooned from a simple post swap to a structural rescue. Spend the consult fee before you fire up the saw.
Repair vs. Replacement: How We Decide on Site
We use a simple, structured assessment that keeps the decision grounded in facts, not guesswork.
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Probe and core check. We test the post at 1, 3, and 6 inches above the base and at the notch or connector. If the core is sound at all points, repair stays on the table.
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Hardware mapping. We identify how the load travels: saddle, knife plate, notch, or direct bearing. If the load path uses damaged wood, we favor replacement or a hardware retrofit that bypasses the rot.
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Footing integrity. We verify pad size and condition. A perfect new post sitting on an undersized, cracked footing will fail early. If the footing is wrong, we recommend fixing it now, not later.
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Moisture sources. We look up and around. A leaking gutter over a deck beam will defeat any repair. We correct drainage or you’ll buy the same job twice.
With these checks, we can advise you in clear terms: save or replace, with a cost and a timeline you can trust.
Prevention That Actually Works in Our Climate
You will not eliminate moisture in Atlanta, but you can stop it from living at your post base. The most effective measures are simple. Keep a gap between wood and concrete using an approved post base with a standoff. Seal all end grain with a copper naphthenate or equivalent preservative when we cut. Use ground-contact rated wood for posts, not standard treated stock. Add gravel around footings for drainage instead of mounding soil up the column. Keep sprinklers from hitting the post base and redirect downspouts so they discharge away from the deck.
For beam connections, we prefer hardware that avoids notching. Where notches are unavoidable, we seal and flash cuts and keep fasteners out of end grain as much as possible. Small details like a cap flashing over a beam can add years to the life of a post.
Timeline: How Long Does the Work Take?
Most single-post replacements finish in half a day to a full day. If we are pouring a new footing, we need a return trip after the concrete cures, often 24 to 48 hours in summer, longer in cold or wet weather. Multi-post projects vary with access and height. We schedule around weather to avoid trapping moisture inside fresh cuts and to work safely at height.
You can use most of your deck during the process, though we block off the work bay and keep family and pets clear. We tidy daily, remove debris, and haul out failed posts for disposal.
What If the Post Looks Fine but the Rail Is Loose?
This is common. The vertical guard post at the edge might be stiff, but the connection to the framing is weak. We address this with through-bolts, specific blocking patterns, and steel tension ties that meet modern lateral load requirements. If we fix a rotted support post, it’s smart to evaluate rails at the same visit. The incremental cost to secure guard posts while everything is open is low, and it finishes the job right.
Real-World Case: Grant Park Two-Story Deck
A two-story deck with six posts showed soft spots at two bottoms and wobbly rails upstairs. The posts sat on thin patio stones that had sunk. We proposed replacing all six bases, swapping two posts, and installing new 18-inch diameter footings under four positions without post replacement. We used stand-off bases, ground-contact 6x6s for the two bad posts, and tension ties on the rail posts. Cost landed at 8,900, which included concrete, hardware upgrades, and cleanup. The owner first asked for a patch on the worst post only for budget reasons, but the footing issues made partial work false economy. Doing it right once beat chasing problems over the next two years.
The Role of Local Soil and Drainage
Clay-heavy soils around Atlanta swell and shrink with moisture changes. Footings must reach below the active layer and be wide enough to spread load. If you have downspouts dumping near footings, the base will cycle wet-dry more than it should, stressing the connection and inviting rot. We often add splash blocks or simple piping to carry water away ten feet or more. A 50-dollar extension can save a thousand-dollar post.
In sloped yards from North Druid Hills to Kennesaw, we see wind-driven rain under decks that never dry out. Ventilation matters. Avoid boxing in the base with solid skirting. If you want a clean look, use vented panels and keep a gap at grade.
Why “Deck Post Repair Near Me” Matters for Atlanta Homes
Decks are local. The species used, the way lumber yards store treated stock, and the hardware that holds up over time all vary by region. A contractor who builds in dry climates will specify details that fail here in Georgia humidity. Searching deck post repair near me and hiring someone who works every week in Atlanta means your posts are judged against local conditions and code practice. We know which neighborhoods used certain deck details in the 90s, which inspectors want added blocking for guard posts, and which hilltop lots see the worst wind and rain on upper decks. That context makes repairs more durable and replacements more efficient.
What to Do Today if You Suspect a Rotted Post
You can learn a lot with a flashlight and a screwdriver. Check the base of each post, especially those nearest downspouts or sprinklers. Probe the wood lightly. Look for rust streaks on brackets, which signal water standing at the connection. Watch for movement when someone walks the deck. If anything feels off, stop heavy use and book a visit.
If you prefer a simple next step, call or message Heide Contracting. We serve Atlanta and nearby suburbs with prompt assessments and clear pricing. We can usually schedule inspections within a few days, and we bring shoring gear on the truck in case a post is unsafe. If the structure is fine and you only need a small repair, we say so. If replacement is the right call, we explain why, show you the measurements and photos, and give you options that fit your budget without compromising safety.
A Simple Comparison to Help You Decide
Here is a quick way to think about your choice.
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Repair makes sense when the core is solid, damage is small and above grade, and hardware upgrades can carry the load instead of compromised wood.
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Replacement is the right move when rot is at the base or notch with a soft core, when more than a third of the section is gone, or when the footing or bracket is wrong in the first place.
Either way, solving drainage and isolation at the same time extends the life of the fix. That is where the real savings live.
Ready for a Safe, Straightforward Fix?
If your deck leans, wobbles, or hides soft wood at the base, do not put it off. Rot spreads and hardware weakens faster than you think in our climate. A short, focused site visit can turn uncertainty into a clear plan with transparent costs. If you are searching for deck post repair near me in Atlanta, GA, Heide Contracting is ready to help. Tell us your neighborhood, share a few photos, and we’ll advise you on the best route: save what is sound, replace what is not, and set your deck up to stay solid through our humid summers and chilly, wet winters.
Heide Contracting provides structural renovation and construction services in Atlanta, GA. Our team handles load-bearing wall removal, crawlspace conversions, basement excavations, and foundation wall repairs. We specialize in masonry, porch, and deck structural fixes to restore safety and improve property value. Every project is completed with attention to structural strength, clear planning, and reliable service. Homeowners in Atlanta trust us for renovations that balance function with design while keeping integrity as the priority.